Somloi Vandor, Harslevelu, 2023 tinar de mirat walking the line between racy

walking the line between racy acidity and quiet richness

This is Brovia at full throttle

the wine shows a lovely balance of richness and restraint

If you've never had a great Greek white

mineral-driven quality that lingers

Somloi Vandor, Harslevelu, 2023 tinar de mirat walking the line between racySomlo is a lone extinct volcano rising straight out of the flat plains of northwest Hungary, one of the country's smallest and strangest wine regions, and one of the rare places on earth that makes almost nothing but white. Tamas Kis trained in Eger, home of Bull's Blood, before this volcanic butte hooked him for good, and his tiny Somloi Vandor project farms it organically with a minimal intervention hand. This is Harslevelu, an indigenous Hungarian